BLOOD BROTHER AND MICHIKO KOSHINO AT LFWM 20179th January 2017
Expecting nothing short from a label with strong ties to London’s subcultures, the Blood Brother presentation was an animated production of bygone days. Amidst the reverberating soundtrack and the well-trained spotlights, the audience snaked around the concrete platform decked with washed up wares – blackened barrels, rusty chains and caged buoys – an allusion to the River Thames inspiration of the collection. The River Thames, London’s central vein, has drawn in visitors and locals alike. The city’s iconic buildings frame the murky waters and its banks have produced many of London’s historic subcultures, most notably mud larkers and ferry men. It is from these under the radar profiles that Penelope Tucker, designer for Blood Brother, drew inspiration.Read more
BERTHOLD AW17 PRESENTATION LFW MEN'S 8th January 2017
On the walls of Raymond Berthold’s studio are photographs of scratches, scars and stitches embedded deep into the skin, 3D printed prosthetics, curved metal body braces and athletic tape coiled around arms and legs.
The collection explores the rhythm of restriction. Proportions push and pull. Dimensions meet and diverge. Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspire a larger languid silhouette for tunics and winter coats. Thick, rough bandages wrapping heads and masking identities translate into volumes delimited yet energetic. Taut body gloves are worn over wide-leg trousers and sportif jackets have elongated, exaggerated sleeves.Read more