Inspired by the form and structure of the human anatomy - Rosie D’Ercole’s SS20 collection (Therion) explores silhouette through a creative use of pattern cutting. It is clear that lingerie played a large part in inspiring her construction techniques, with the use of multiple underbodies to build and alter the silhouette.
The contradiction of mixing dark subject matter with wearable silhouette and print has always been appealing to Rosie. A key research image was Joel Peter-Witkin’s ‘Woman Once a Bird’, finding the crossover between human and animal intriguing. Fresh reference points were drawn from first hand research at the London College of Surgeons (now closed for refurbishment), the concept for the collection being to cross reference research from animal and human anatomy. Rosie is creating clothes to empower the wearer and change their perspectives on themselves, giving the idea of a second skin.
This is explored most in D’Ercole’s leather work, painstakingly topstitched together, her leather patchwork pieces are entirely sustainable, working to incorporate leather’s natural defects. Made entirely from leather and organza offcuts, no small part is wasted.
Using an initial starting point of body contortion and manipulation, we can see a colour scheme brought forward from her pre collection. Inspired by how the body colour changes when hurt, deep reds and pale pinks are now mixed with barely there ochre organza.
Print has been pushed forward with a beautiful subtlety. Drawing has allowed for stunningly detailed digital prints, drawn and abstracted from spine scans, lent to D’Ercole from a close personal friend effected by scoliosis, a curvature to the spine. There is a beauty in the anonymity of the print, not quite being sure what you might be looking at.