Steven Passaro’s collection is based on the theory of the fold which is s a concept to help us to think of identity as a process of becoming. It is an interface between the inside and the outside, depth and surface, being and appearing. It is based itself on the work of Gilles Deleuze and his Philosophy of “Le Pli”. It is a journey were folded garments become a reflection of the mind, which holds emotions and memories.
The design methodology translates the theory into a 2d/3d process, where pleats and folds are added to create movement and ease in the tailored garments. In order to liberate the body, Steven looked at where garments restrain thmovements and adapted the design to created a flexible tailoring. The selection of the fabrics has been determined by the function required but also by the context of contemporary menswear.
Working with folds and pleats, Steven looked at the type of fibres that allows permanent creased lines to be created. Polyester and wool blends became rapidly valuable given their ability to hold creased lines longer than for longer than if cotton was used ultimately resulting in a less environmentally impactful. His collection employs folds to embody masculine vulnerability and uses neutral colours to give a sense of balance. Beyond their neutrality, these colours offer the wearer restorative qualities, bringing a sense of calmness and reassurance in our busy lives.