For her graduate collection ‘The Masquerade’ Ajanae Samuel decided to explore the idea of mockery from a cultural lense, exploring the origins of her cultural dance ;Montserrat’s Masquerade. Dancing was an outlet for slaves rebellious desires, performing parodies and imitations to mock their plantation owners. Taking this as inspiration,she used the costumes of the masquerade to inform her experimentation and processes. Channelling this information towards mocking ‘smartwear’ to challenge western notions of respectability.

Analysis of the word mockery was the first step of her process, using the ideas to influence design features. Taking this analysis further, reviewing business attire and manipulating it exaggerating proportion,shape and silhouette. Focusing on pinstripe, a common pattern within her research found on trousers, shirts and blazers, she endeavoured to mix various pinstripes to mimic the mixed prints of the masquerade as well as mock the rigidity of business attire.

The use of unconventional materials was also an integral part of her process.Taking inspiration from the masquerade hats which are wrapped in christmas wrapping paper, she created shirts using newsprint. Embracing the fragility and creasable nature, she instructed her model to move and intentionally break the shirt to explore silhouette and shape. Mocking the formality and respectability expected of business attire.

Draping on the stand was also a large part of the process,allowing for the building of silhouette and shape. Using ribbon to ruche, build volume and texture was inspired by the A line shape found in vintage Montserrat masquerade celebration dresses and the prominence of ribbon in masquerade costumes.Creating a skirt that was nontraditional,original and highly unlikely to appear in the realm of business atire.

The collection results in a unique,conceptual jab at the west,founded in the rich contextual roots of Montserrat’s masquerade. Playful yet thought provoking, Ajanae in the spirit of an iconoclast mocked ‘business attire’ striking a balance between wearability and creativity. Isn’t it the sweetest mockery to mock our enemies? this collection suggests so with models taking the runway in paper garments,heads wrapped in tshirts, mitre hats ,sporting traditional Montserration madras tights worn over shoes.