Historically, there is one course from a London academy, that is truly respected, and internationally recognised, for discovering some of the best professional talents in the fashion industry. Yes, it is the MA Fashion course from Central Saint Martins. For years, this course has demonstrated an unfailing ability, to unearth world class designers such as Alexander McQueen, Stella Mccartney, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Molly Goddard, and to transform their raw talent into trend changing prowess. As a result, the reputation of the course does not only echo around Europe, but is extended across every corner of the world.
Here are the highlights of Central Saint Martins MA Show 2018:
Central Saint Martin’s MA presented nineteen of the most talented members of the MA 2018 class. Directed by course leader Fabio Piras, the show presented eccentric experimentation and smart tailoring, all with breathe taking breakthroughs.
Opening the show, was welsh womenswear designer Liam Johnson, who made a powerful entrance by presenting wearable geometric designs. Some of his strongest pieces featured eye catching shapes in the form of mesh circular hem veils layered on top of dresses.
Opening the show, was welsh womenswear designer Liam Johnson, who made a powerful entrance by presenting wearable geometric designs. Some of his strongest pieces featured eye catching shapes in the form of mesh circular hem veils layered on top of dresses.
Following on was the collection from Yuhan Wang, who presented her stunning sheer mesh and satin deconstructed evening wear. “The flat I live in faces a hotel, and I see people passing by everyday.
Everybody wants to see what’s behind the curtain, what stories are playing out,” she told us. “It became a metaphor then, for me, like how women use their clothes to cover themselves, and what kind of stories are they covering up.” The dresses featured strings of pearls which were matched with lace bonnets.
There was also Edwin Mohney, originally from New York, at the closing of the graduate show. He had some of the show's most avant garde designs; including a swimming pool costume, life-size dummies, Trumpetto heels and mosquito nets that towered about 30cms above the models heads.
This collection was not about shock fashion or being the “weirdest”, however as Charles Jeffrey quoted; “fashion is desperate for clothes that make us react and feel something, whatever way that may be."
Creative Award Winner 2018 The Editor-in-Chief of The Gentlewoman, Penny Martin, had the pleasure of choosing this year’s winner of The L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award. Previous winners include Matty Bovan, Craig Green and Christopher Kane. This year, the award was shared by two Central Saint Martin Fashion MA graduates: Rebecca Jeffs for her womenswear collection, and Olaf Tavares Vieira for his Menswear collection.
Rebecca Jeffs presented her series of smart tailored suits, some embellished with ostrich feathers; shrunken blazers and oversized belts. Netting made from hair ties was put over the models head, creating a visual effect which simulated basketball netting.
“The collection developed through an exploration of the semiotics of the ‘feminine’, I was curious about the lending of gender to existing material objects, such as the kiss-clasp of a lady’s purse, hair clips or fishnet stockings.” she said.
“The collection developed through an exploration of the semiotics of the ‘feminine’, I was curious about the lending of gender to existing material objects, such as the kiss-clasp of a lady’s purse, hair clips or fishnet stockings.” she said.
On the other hand, Olaf Tavares Vieira's draped menswear collection is inspired by utilitarianism and the stomach as the center of the body. His standout pieces included long ankle-grazing coats, sweaters with cutouts in the back and slouchy relaxed trousers. “Two key words for my collection were ‘hara’ and ‘utilitarism’. The clothes are based on body pose which comes from hara and implies total relaxation: the knees are bent, belly out and the shoulders are dropped. It questions the westernised body as a starting point of making clothes.” said Olaf Tavares Vieira.
At the end of the show, all members of the MA 18 class met at the Soho’s Welsh Chapel to present a unique celebration. “We chose The Welsh Chapel because of its central London location and because many of us know it as the former Limelight club,” says Course Leader Fabio Piras.
The 19 designers who had previously been shown on the catwalk were not the only ones in the courses presentation, but they were also every single graduate from the 2018 program. As this year of graduates had particularly produced such outstanding work, it only seemed fair to give all 46 designers the exposure they deserved. We saw collections from across the four pathways; Menswear, Womenswear, Knitwear and Fashion Textiles.
This was a new and informal way to present models, where they were free to have fun and dance for as long as they could. The music was played by an array of DJ´s including former CSM student Matty Bovan. “
The 19 designers who had previously been shown on the catwalk were not the only ones in the courses presentation, but they were also every single graduate from the 2018 program. As this year of graduates had particularly produced such outstanding work, it only seemed fair to give all 46 designers the exposure they deserved. We saw collections from across the four pathways; Menswear, Womenswear, Knitwear and Fashion Textiles.
This was a new and informal way to present models, where they were free to have fun and dance for as long as they could. The music was played by an array of DJ´s including former CSM student Matty Bovan. “
Models led a dance floor procession throughout the club, across the mirrored dance floor and to the balconies. They danced for hours.” said Fabio. Each model held a number that corresponded to an item in an auction-style catalogue, meaning the collections could intertwine and occupy whatever space felt most natural. Fabio said: “to see an inflatable paddling pool and a very classic coat next to each other…It was all about creating that situation, an absurd club,”
It was definitely most inspiring, to have personally witnessed the creations from the Central Saint Martin MA Fashion course, together with their original designers. It appears the school has developed a unique culture, which is to actively connect with various parts of the fashion industry outside of its scholastic curriculum.
For Fashion Crossover London, we shall continue to partner with various designers from Central Saint Martin, in hope to continue achieving synergy, and to delivering impacting ideas to the global fashion industry.