BERTHOLD AW17 PRESENTATION
On the walls of Raymond Berthold’s studio are photographs of scratches, scars and stitches embedded deep into the skin, 3D printed prosthetics, curved metal body braces and athletic tape coiled around arms and legs.
The collection explores the rhythm of restriction.
Proportions push and pull. Dimensions meet and diverge. Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspire a larger languid silhouette for tunics and winter coats. Thick, rough bandages wrapping heads and masking identities translate into volumes delimited yet energetic. Taut body gloves are worn over wide-leg trousers and sportif jackets have elongated, exaggerated sleeves. Fins jut from trousers and across the back of boxy blousons. Elbows on bombers are sliced open; skinny trousers are split at the knee or corseted against the torso.
Fuzzy, dimpled, crisp - textures are taken from torn, soft leather and papers left folded and aged over time. Rich felted wools and pitted technical fabrics are paired with fluffy mohair and easy cotton suiting. Colours are polar white, heavy black and bruise.