London Fashion Week Men's 2017
Blood Brother and Michiko Koshino Monday January 9, 2017
– London had come to a standstill. The city was hit with not one but two lethal doses that crippled the international hub that Monday morning. Torrential rain amidst the tube strike made for a grim welcome into the new years. Despite the hour-long queues for the busses that did little to keep the city running, the show still went on. The last day of London Fashion Week Men’s was significantly quieter then it’s weekend counterpart with many shows walked, presented and packed up for the week ahead. With less of a jam-packed schedule despite the jam- packed streets of commuters outside, Store Studios proved to be a quiet respite. BLOOD BROTHER AW17
Expecting nothing short from a label with strong ties to London’s subcultures, the Blood Brother presentation was an animated production of bygone days. Amidst the reverberating soundtrack and the well-trained spotlights, the audience snaked around the concrete platform decked with washed up wares – blackened barrels, rusty chains and caged buoys – an allusion to the River Thames inspiration of the collection. The River Thames, London’s central vein, has drawn in visitors and locals alike. The city’s iconic buildings frame the murky waters and its banks have produced many of London’s historic subcultures, most notably mud larkers and ferry men. It is from these under the radar profiles that Penelope Tucker, designer for Blood Brother, drew inspiration. The models stood strong in their utilitarian looks, large pockets stood idly behind silver strapped hardware that also flourished on functional frontpacks. Embroidery softened the hard-edged look. Faded cartographic patterns were used as print whilst the blood brother logo was emblazoned on soft silk shirts, shoes, hanging tags and pant legs. Pairing sportswear with fine tailoring, their signature oversized coats and bomber jackets remained as key staples; pieces much like the Thames itself, drawing in new visitors and well-seasoned admirers alike.
MICHIKO KOSHINO AW17
Michiko Koshino’s pieces are ones that you would want to be traveling with. Her signature inflatables now reinvented into helmets touch upon her ancient warrior roots, all the while nodding to the technological advances of future present. With autonomous automobiles and the exceeding normalization of flying as a means of travel, it seemed apt that the most innovative brand of the early 80s would stay at the forefront of evolution. And each piece was indeed able to evolve. Relaxed silhouettes and precision cut separates were able to change shape by simply cinching in the drawstring, zipping or unzipping pieces to create new lines. Standing on top of stand-alone speakers, an ode to the underground scene rife with creativity, the models stood in unwavering solidarity. Decked in a uniform of black, white, tobacco and oranges, it was an army of her finest ready to take on the brave new world.