Jake Liu’s latest collection, No Everlasting Eternity, began with research and experiments in to an unbalanced silhouette within my 2018 collection and a merging of sports and tailoring genres. Conceptually he is interested in the depiction of the non-idealized and what this can say about a garment's relationship to the body. Through rigorous toiling and sampling of form and material combinations, he settled upon the backpack as a simple but recognizable distortion of a ‘neutral silhouette’, especially when worn under outerwear.
UThrough rigorous toiling and sampling of form and material combinations he settled upon the backpack as a simple but recognizable distortion of a ‘neutral silhouette’, especially when worn under outerwear. Something that was also really important to me within this was that he produces functional unisex-wear. Based on his research, he tried to collage and play with backpack’s placements and analyze how changes people’s body proportions and also how to make the deformed silhouettes to be functional and playful for his audiences and clients.
Jake also wanted to challenge traditional and expected sportswear fabrications throughout the collection. He used a lot of traditional luxury natural fabrics like silk satin and crepe, quality fine wool suiting and cashmere. By combining these fabrications with standardized sportswear trims and finishes not only elevated the garments but in many ways confused their initial reading. A lot of the character building within the collection was also informed by Alejandro Jodorowsky's 1973 surreal-fantasy film ‘The Holy Mountain’. This influence also carried through into many of the 1970s archetypes explored in the collection such as flare pants, rain mac coat and disco shirts as well as the colour / graphic decisions.