In a time where gender neutrality takes precedence, how has the conventional notions of menswear changed? James Reeves poses this question and through his designs, tackles some of these complexities.
With an interest in gender politics in relation to fashion, James looks at what it means to ‘dress like a man’. By outlining the clear markers of what defines a man’s wardrobe, James took it upon himself to push against these social boundaries and expectations. Historically speaking, men’s dress was simply put, very straightforward – military uniforms, suit variations and white-collar attire. These styles were often crafted in traditional prints such as herringbone and houndstooth. These stiff dress regulations formed the foundation of James' garments.
To reconstruct the conventions of menswear, James took to deconstruction. On top of these silhouettes and materials, he applied a splicing technique, this enabled him to add colour and change the shape of his garments. In deciding on what to incorporate into his pieces, James reflected on his own wardrobe and at school uniforms, how these two ideas of subconscious and enforced conformity dictated men’s dress. Bright colours and prints made little to no appearance and thus informed the direction of his collection.
Sequined lurex and shiny foil squares were heat pressed onto formal attire, dramatically changing its intention. Since expansion of mindsets was James’ key motif, he took it to its most literal terms. By combining elements of pop-up and splicing, shirts featured multiple collars whilst briefcases opened up like accordions – a statement on the structured confines of a hard shell briefcase. As monotone as conventional menswear, James’ collection was equally colourful, an exploration into the infinite possibilities of what menswear can become.
