Kieren Radford’s collection draws inspiration from sculpture and origami, and how you can manipulate these patterns to create different 3D forms to allow them to fit the body. Rather than use the synthetic fabrics, as are typically used in pleating for their ability to retain permanent creases, Kieren uses leather and wools, reminiscent of the materials more traditionally used in luxury menswear. This is to help bridge the gap between sculpture and clothing, with the familiar aspects of both coming together in a way that feels familiar but new.
By hand pleating all the samples and final fabrics for his collection, Kieren was able to more intimately understand how different materials would react to the pleating process, and discover ways to have these natural fibres retain the shape after being pleated. From creating the paper moulds, bonding the fabric, to the final pleating process.