studing on the 3rd year of Paris fashion school (ESMOD) and thinking on the theme of my end-of-studies collection, I set myself a goal to make it in an original and special style, unlike other collections. As an immigrant from Russia and a lover of Russian style and ethnicity in general, I turned towards my Motherland, so close and so far away. This is how the idea and name of the collection, Vorogeya (an ancient Russian word meaning fortune-teller, magician), based on the Russian costume, was born. The first stage in the creation of my collection was a deep study of Russian traditional costume of the 17th-19th centuries. I studied the cut of blouses and dresses, the main elements and features, which consisted of the decoration and embroidery of the suit. I reviewed tens of books on this subject, choosing the right material from the bottomless treasury of our history. In my collection, I wanted to express through my costumes the depth and mystical richness of Russian soul.
The second stage in the process of collection creation was to choose a clear direction, character and general mood. In addition to being inspired by the Russian costume, I wanted to express the mystical side of it. In pagan Russia, the most beautiful outfits were used for rituals and ceremonies. For example, long sleeves with slits, puffy A-shaped dresses, embroidered symbols on the bottom of skirts and sleeves on blouses, multilayer hats were used in ritual dances. Every detail of the costume was endowed with special meaning, brought protection and good luck. In the modern world, where globalization and unification reign, we are forgetting more and more about our origins, roots and our ancestors. Losing connections with nature and with each other, we become unhappy. With my collection, I wanted to convey the importance of remembering, reusing and resurrecting the heritage of our ancestors, through art, through fashion in particular.
A lot of attention in the collection is dedicated to the development of prints based on my own embroidery and artwork. According to the collection’s theme, 2 embroideries were designed based on Slavic symbols (“Agidel” - the goddess of water and “Field” - dedicated to the mother of earth). When creating them, natural materials were used, referring to shamanic themes, such as cones, leaves, fur, apples. The collection also has a stitch on a Slavic theme and an author's print made with paints. All prints were printed specifically for the collection in an exclusive format. Traditional symbols and embroidery techniques are combined with modern printing techniques to create a modern and strikingly beautiful effect. Vivid, unique prints and collected materials served as the basis for the next important stage - creation of the final sketches.
There are 8 looks in the Vorogeya collection, in which there is a varied assortiment: from mini skirts to coats. But the main objects of the collection are, of course, dresses and blouses, which were characteristic elements of the festive wardrobe of ancient Slavs. This choice is also based on the call for a return to femininity and romanticism in modern fashion. When sketching, I was guided by the main line of the collection - the A-shaped silhouette, as well as voluminous and very long sleeves, numerous small folds replacing darts, as well as hoods, and my interpretation of the headdresses of the traditional costume of Russia. Vorogeya's color scheme is as bright as that of the original costume. The word "red" in translation from Russian means "beautiful", so our traditional costume has a lot of red. Vorogeya also emphasizes the red color by pairing it with black, white and vibrant colors like indigo blue, purple, which add a psychedelic and modern touch. The richness of images is reflected in the variety of selected fabrics: velvet, organza, satin, fine cotton, tweed, suit wool and even raincoat fabric are present in the collection.