Léo Buscetti graduate collection “CHEMICAL WARFARE” was influenced by elements found in chemical warfare such as uniforms, special equipments and chemical reactions on war landscapes. Léo wanted to create a collection with strong silhouettes for modern utility. His challenge was to make technical garments engineered for durability, comfort and protectivity with an illusional aspect at a molecular point remininding the damage inflicted on these mortuary landscapes.
Using military uniforms references, his collection have been largely inspired by military life vest, NBC chemical suits and pilot equipment. Léo looks for shapes and special finishing that he experiment with drawing, collage, stylings and mostly draping. Each piece is made for a special utility which makes him develop the shape and the fabric matching the aesthetics of the chemical reactions but also the main need of the garment (water resistant, ultra lightweight, knife resistant...)
Draping as a couture specificity is an important part of Léo’s work. He loves to play between the traditional lines of couture and a more aggressive, oversized, cosy look that make his signature style recognizable.
Léo’s final collection shows the influence of the utilitarian outdoor equipment mixed technical fabrics which make a poetic allusion of past chemical warfare that we already lives in. His goal is to develop is own materials and fabrics at a production level in a sustainable way from the process until the final product. Also, he would like to remind that the product in itself is more important than the fashion object. The technicity, the durability, the comfort and the adaptability of the clothing are the keys to design on these modern days while we are trashing the planet with all our excessives activities.