Lexi Young’s ‘Structured Motion’ AW21 collection is inspired by modern architecture. Particularly, abstract buildings with curved shapes and layering. Focusing on the eye-shaped Tianjin Library interior with its layered rippling, curved faux bookshelves and a large sphere in the centre of the building is where the collection gets its clean look with a complexity of shapes. The collection has a Ready-To-Wear, futuristic concept, full of complex staple pieces.

Beginning with experimental drawing, Lexi developed the collection using improvisation methods. Tracing shapes from research images, draping on the stand and using experimental pattern cutting, the silhouettes and ideas for the collection emerged. The experimental nature of this design process contributed to creating original, new ideas that had no gender restrictions. Solely bright whites and concreate colours are featured, to force your attention to the shapes and structures of the fabric. The collection is mostly made from bamboo, remaining environmentally conscious. Other fabrics that feature are polyester/cotton and a waterproof PU for the rain jackets, these are kept to a minimum for sustainability purposes.

Taking inspiration from the initial design development from the drapings and tracings, silhouettes and ideas were formed. Lexi then used Adobe Draw to sketch many designs that were edited, developed and transformed into the final Ready-To-Wear collection. Garment ranges were made up of technical drawings created using Adobe Illustrator.

‘Structured Motion’ is the name of the collection as it applies to the natural-looking curvature featured in modern man-made buildings. This also describes a large amount of pleating in the collection that changes the organic flow of the fabrics. A range of hooded pullovers, rain jackets and abstract tops are paired with layered skirts and cuffed trousers and shorts to make up the collection. All the garments featured are unisex and appeal to a contemporary crowd who appreciate androgyny, minimalism and comfort. Lexi was only able to create outfit 3 due to COVID restrictions but she would love to see the full collection animated.