Lili Zhao's work is mainly based on the tension of material, structure and human body. This collection is called 'Disobedience'. The initial inspiration is from Henry David Thoreau's article 'Civil Disobedience' which brings a sense of living and inspired her to focus on how to liberate the human body and conscience in a homogeneous society. She created her own methodology based on experiments and the original pattern cutting technique half-cut.
Algorithm: Parametric design is the main focus in this collection which involves one typical architecture structure called minimal surface. She chose pleats for its geometric and kinetic characteristics, which allow her to make garments based on an algorithm by counting grids and calculate the pattern.
Half-cut: During the process of material experiments, she found the half-cut technique can change the material’s dimension from 2D to 3D automatically to shape any form without relying on the traditional garment pattern or sewing. Some pieces in her collection are cut in one piece of fabric each with one sewing line, and all the units connect together themselves intelligently and construct a new form. Both material and herself totally evolve into a new shape in a way and share a new life journey by mutual exploration and communication.