Lucy Saltinstall’s collection was heavily inspired by the High Line in New York, which she came across last year whilst visiting the city. The colourful and calming plants growing up through disused railway tracks in the midst of one of the busiest cities in the world encouraged Lucy to research further the strength of nature in urban landscapes, looking at artisits such as Wolfgang Tillmans and Michael Landy, who take influence from roadside weeds and window boxes.
Incorporating the juxtaposition of brutalist structures and the resilience of nature into her designs, Lucy created an androgenous womenswear collection featuring a mixture of tailoring, knitwear and sportswear detailing, a new genre to portray the clashing of these two concepts. Using a combination of print and knitwear to represent the overgrown and unruly characteristics of plants, she has merged these soft fabrics and paintings with strong, structured materials such as spacer mesh and concrete-dipped pieces, influenced by textures from the Barbican, to represent the rigid architecture of man-made design.
Embroidered pieces inspired by the etchings of Michael Landy portray the delicate appearance of these plants, whilst Lucy’s composition of layering indicates the idea of weeds breaking through. This concept is shown by hints of overgrown knit creeping through from underneath layers, and pops of artificial turf featuring on pockets, panels and accessories.