Maisie Farrer’s graduate collection ‘Made-To-Expose’ explores the contrast between Punk and Couture while exploring that balance between chaos and detail. Initially inspired by the tonal white walls of her art college, She used this imagery to fuel both her monochromatic colour palette and her manipulation techniques. Maisie aimed to create a collection that expressed her love of playing with silhouette and form, which allowed her to show off her skills of dyeing and handstitch fabric manipulation.
From afar, the white college walls looked plain and mundane but up close, Maisie noticed the pin-tac holes and ink stains that decorated them and wanted to recreate a similar soft rebellion in her work. Through mix media collage she made textural studies of the walls and was immediately drawn to the staples embedded into the wood. Using them as inspiration, she began to translate the marks made by a staple onto fabric and created a variety of samples experimenting with stitch by machine and hand. Using her limited tonal colour palette, her exaggerated and repeated stitch techniques created a balance of subtlety and detail.
To continue the theme of Punk throughout her work, Maisie wanted to focus on its attitude to rebel against social norms. She translated this into textiles by incorporating unconventional waste materials into her samples. Sourced from local manufacturers, Maisie dyed a variety of plastics to create more layers to her monochromatic samples. The shiny industrial plastics paired with her natural luxury cottons created a contrast that mimicked the relationship between Punk and Couture while also challenging feminine and masculine fashion.
After researching into the history of female undergarments, Maisie created separated her collection so she was able to explore more sides to conventional femininity. One focused on an exaggerated version of femininity, with large puffs in unconventional places, while another looked at a more structured and linear approach, which allowed Maisie to form boxy adrogynous silhouettes. Then finally, one was based entirely on the corset with every sample using a stitch she created inspired by the fastening. Maisie was able to bring her sketches to life by playing with samples on a mannequin, this process helps her to calculate scale and placement.
These are Maisie’s moodboards and some final collection pieces. Due to the corona virus pandemic and limited access to fabric, Maisie was only able visualise her samples at full scale through the use of Photoshop. She was able to adapt to turning her work digital and created collaged illustrations to bring her final pieces to life. No gender was in mind when creating each design, adding in stubbly legs and ambigious limbs, as she intends her collection to be for all.