Manya Kullmann’s graduate collection was very much inspired by her grandmother’s supposed secret life of being a spy during the Soviet Union. After finding a lot of articles written about her in the 60s, Manya decided to make her “spy life” a reality. She looked at the 1920’s, at Hollywood glamour, and explored how little beauty standards have evolved over the last a century. Manya wanted to look at how imperfections should be something to be proud of and not concealed.




Sexuality was a major theme that Manya wanted to explore in her collection, drawing inspiration from Mata Hari. Known for seducing men and being able to obtain information for the government, she is a figure who embodies the subtle sexuality that was central to the collection. Manya also looked at traditional folk art, a beautiful form of art that every Russian has in their home, which she wanted to distort, turning it into a symbol of the destruction of Russia. The double life of her grandmother really brought up the subject of identity. So she looked at artists such as Cindy Sherman and explored how women in the 21st century have all morphed into looking the same.




With important subjects running throughout the collection, Manya chose vibrant colours to enhance the mood. She wanted it to be a fun collection, a world of female domination. Russian spies taking over / infiltrating the world of male dominance. Print plays a big part in the collection. Manya mainly used screen printing as well as vinyl applique and embroidery. She collaborated with a crotchet expert who made her flower and berry-shaped accessories, which are both images that dominate Russian folk art.