Lucia Borini is recent graduate of Fashion Design AFAM at Istituto Marangoni Milano with a strong passion for the Denim World and versatility of up cycling. Lucia was recently featured in the October issue of the Harper’s Bazaar and finding our more of her recent collection DENI.ME! Find out for yourself below!
For your graduate collection ‘DENI.ME’, you mention Ian Berry and Anna Weber being your biggest inspiration in regards to 90s American Hip Hop culture; what are some other influences that inspired your designs?
Actually, the 90s American Hip Hop culture was the inspiration for the general mood of the collection. I really love those kind of fits, especially the baggy one. I wanted to recreate the hip hop mood also for what concerns the shooting and the videoclip of the collection. Ian Berry and Anna Weber were the inspiration for the detailing part: patchworks and applications are the real results of their works and their kind of art, regarding also the Upcycling system. I was so inspired by their works that I was able to design and create something being led exclusively by my creativity. That was the best and most fun part of my job!
You used recycled materials and old denim to design your collection; what was the process like in collecting and recreating the recycled materials?
The collecting part of the materials was actually really funny. I went to the Vintage Market in Milan, in the lovely Navigli district, and collect some old denim garments. They were all massive sizes because I needed a lot of fabrics to create my designs, and those fits were also inspiring for the actual fits of my collection. Also, I asked my dad to give me some of his old jeans, that he actually bought when he was studying in America in his early 30s and that he is not able to wear anymore now because of the sizes. He gave me more or less fifteen pairs of jeans actually! As I said, the recreating part was all led by my creativity. Before that, I saw a lot of pieces of art of the two artist that I mentioned before, Ian Berry and Anna Weber. When it came to carry out something, I folded some pant legs to recreate the design of the flowers and cut hundreds of pieces of denim and place them together for what was in my opinion the best disposition, and it came out what it actually is now.
The recreating part was all led by my creativity.
Do you mind telling us what 90s American Hip Hop culture is for you and your collection?
As I said before, the 90s American Hip Hop was for my collection and is actually now for me a big inspiration! I like everything of that aesthetic, from the clothes fits, which were clearly reflected in fashion in that period, to the mood created by the young people who wore those big baggy clothes, inspired also by the rappers and singers of that period who clearly did a statement of the 90s hip hop fashion. Regarding this, the music was also an inspiration for me, as I am a big fan of Hip Hop artists, and music in general. I remember when I was little, in middle school, dreaming of wearing those kind of baggy jeans and bold sneakers. And now I create them by myself!
The music was also an inspiration for me, as I am a big fan of Hip Hop artists, and music in general..
In true 90s fashion, you designed this denim collection to be ‘baggy ‘ and ‘oversized’ with small detailing, such as flowers, in reference to females. Which pieces within your collection did you enjoy designing the most?
Without any doubts, the piece that I enjoyed designing the most is the big patchwork jacket, that I styled with some baggy jeans. It was fun placing all of those denim pieces together, and I was really happy with the result too. Also those pair of jeans that I designed with the jacket were also really fun to create because of the story behind of them: they are actually made using my dad’s old Levi’s jeans as a model for the paper pattern. Then, I enjoyed designing also the long coat with the flower in the back, created folding a pant leg of some vintage jeans, and using a flap as a flower stem. Last, the two hats that I designed were actually really fun to make, especially the baseball hat with the jeans stitches applied on the head perimeter of the hat, recreating the typical dreadlocks of the 90s American generations. Such a great and distinctive piece of the collection in my opinion!
You’ve used your dad’s old recycled denim for some of your pieces in your graduate collection; do you think your own childhood influenced your designs?
Yes, I think so. My childhood clearly influenced my design. My dad used to tell me to create my personal Jeans label in the future, because of the successful impact that this garment has in the fashion industry. I remember when I was really little dreaming to do that when I would have been old enough to. I’m sure that jeans will always be present in my future collections, because I’m clearly obsessed, if it wasn’t clear enough!
I’m sure that jeans will always be present in my future collections
Discover Lucia Borini full collection
Words by Holly Cramman