The initial focus point for the contextual research of this collection centred around punk culture and the values they hold and the subcultures that are formed in attraction to the punk ethos. What makes the feminine adaptation of punk culture powerful, is that rather than relying on others for their self worth they actually create their own strong self-images. Punk girls feel empowerment from resisting socialized beauty standards, that tell them short hair, facial piercings and layered oversized clothing is ugly.
Maddie’s graduate collection was heavily inspired by the Wilder Mann documentary by Charles Freger. It is about how the transformation of man to beast is a central aspect of traditional pagan rituals that are centuries old, which celebrate the seasonal cycle, fertility, life and death.
Each year throughout Europe, from Scotland to Bulgaria, from Finland to Italy, from Portugal to Greece, Switzerland and Germany, people literally put themselves into the skin of the ‘savage’, in a masquerades that stretch back centuries.
Maddy Stringer’s S/S 19 collection draws inspiration from the beauty in the mundane, exploring the human desire to collect and why we can feel connected to inanimate objects.
Maddy identifies with being a hoarder, her most notable collections include an extensive range of hotel soap packets and miniature doll’s house furniture items. The juxtaposition of traditional furnishing motifs and bright plastic packaging became the unexpected starting point for Maddy’s designs.
Maisie Dunton's collection was heavily influenced by human relationships and ties. What started as a project inspired by the grief and loss of her mother's sister, evolved into a playful experimentation of how the clothes you wear could re-create that sense of happiness, comfort and security from the relationship you once had. Through looking back at her childhood photographs, she realised much of her own sense of security came from being at home with family, interiors, dressed in her pyjamas, something too big or borrowed or wrapped up in a blanket.
Malene's collection is mainly inspired by the movement of contemporary dance and musicians such as Patti Smith or PJ Harvey. The term femininity played a key role in her work and she wanted to combine different perceptions of this by putting the softness of the dance together with the more rough image and look of Rock’n Roll musicians. She experimented with different techniques of twisting and stretching the fabric around the body and combining see-through materials with rough materials to bring together and play with feminine and masculine elements.
Initially inspired by the clashing gangs of Tokyo Tribe, a dystopian rap battle musical, Manimekala’s SS19 collection "Wayward" is about the interaction of different cultures. Researching the Japanese subculture of the bosozoku bikers, and their adoption of the American greaser lifestyle, Manimekala developed distinctive abstract motifs to identify her own imagined gang.
Coming from a mixed race background comprising British, Indian and American (USA), she takes an intersectional approach to consider the implications of her specific heritage within the context of contemporary power structures and the legacy of Western colonialism.
Inspired by drag racing cars and their bold and eclectic drivers, this collection celebrates the sport’s daring and playful spirit. Protective wear and car interiors inform inventive pattern cutting and textiles techniques – creating new and exciting 3D surfaces using foam squares trapped in between layers of fabrics.
Focusing on the contrast between rigid and flowing fabrics in exaggerated silhouettes with details borrowed from sportswear, the car’s complex construction is referenced throughout.
Everything in nature can be seen as patterns. We as a human race derive inspiration from this. We construct concrete jungles, build roads like vines and tree roots, follow a flow where feathers grow in, making us so much a.LIKE to nature.
Manon’s collection is a Ready To Wear collection which takes influence from this, colliding the worlds of geometrical shapes and architecture, with the repetition found throughout nature; these elements are key details to each garments.
Maria-Raluca Streang’s collection was heavily inspired by her dad’s childhood stories. Investigating the ways in which Communism affected Romania’s traditional culture and the effect that had on the mentality of millions of children that grew up under the Romanian Communist Dictatorship. Looking especially at the difference between the school uniforms children used to wear during that period (1970-1989) and the traditional costume, symbol of craftmanship and folk art.
Marine Beybudyan's “Entangled” collection was initially inspired by Louise Bourgeois artwork, explores an idea of knots as a form of therapy for mental illnesses. Bourgeois considered art as a "form of psychoanalysis", offering unique access to the unconscious, as well as a form of psychological release.
Exploration of knotted shapes convey mixed emotions and feelings such as anxiety, fear and anger.
Matilda Aberg’s collection was inspired by a story she came up with herself drawing inspiration from Swedish folk myth. It is a story of a lost princess in the dark Northern forests of the 17th Century and her encounters with the creatures of the forest - the femme fatals. From them she learns about sisterhood and revenge.
The inspiration of the collection comes from royal fashion with heavy velvets, the veils of the elves, the naked body of the mistress of the forest as well as her rotten back.
Being intrigued by Viennese singer Falco greatest hit „Rock Me Amadeus“ my collection only can be built around music as a visual language. In particular, the rebellious spirit of rock music is the beat of my graduation collection at the fashion department in Antwerp 2019. I’m from Vienna, the city of music. We love Mozart and we are crazy about Falco. Therefore music has been part of my cultural heritage and education ever since. In Vienna, we learn to dance the waltz for “ball season” in highschool.
The collection is inspired from digital footprints recorded by Google, revealing our digital twin and a new internet culture which reflects our digital life. You can be anything you want online, as the internet is a space that promotes visibility as the ultimate equalising platform. Internet culture has been the biggest inspiration for Mayya's designs for many years. There are three significant steps in creating a data-based collection.
A Journey into a psychedelic landscape. Read Only Memory, a film by John Maybury, takes us on an experimental trip into an alternate microcosm. Megan Cummings’s collection, Microdose, desires to enter this world, translating surreal visuals, moods and feelings through the medium of cloth. Along with influences from 1980s club culture which catalysed the films production. Ultimately the collection is creating a physical portal into Maybury’s mind-bending tour.
Megan Rose’s collection ‘obsessive|compulsive chaos’ is in aftermath from her most recent collection banepn valeri, where a new sense of understanding is found through the element of collecting. ‘Obsessive|compulsive chaos’ moves on from the formal elements of collecting- entertaining a more obsessive, compulsive chaotic association surrounding collecting with a strong focus on symbolising objects in place and being.
The collection really captures the impact of obsessive compulsive hoarding, developed from the initial inspiration of her Grandmother and her unusual range of collections on display within her home.
Megan wanted to present the idea of reflection, layers and silhouette through her collection.Through her design process she would refer back to her concept and colour boards to gain inspiration on how the layering of the images could develop into garments.
The silhouettes are inspired by the transparent flower photographs and how gentle yet impactful they were. The layering of the images inspired Megan to create the pleating throughout her collection, she wanted to use a range of pleating techniques to create depth and detail.
Inspired by a combination of both manmade and natural settings, such as buildings in the rain, Meiqi’s designs are unique and everything in life can be considered as an inspiration.
Strong characteristics and skilful techniques come together to create an artistic aesthetic, in which the quality and shaping of the metal she uses as a material is a priority in her collections. As well as considering the movement, tiny details are also important when it comes to the qualities of the stainless steel and laser-welder used to combine steel and metal together beautifully.
For many Third Culture Kids, the curiosity of one's ancestral heritage is a growing enigma. Embracing her Third Culture Kid status, Melanie Yau, a British-born Chinese fashion design graduate from the University of South Wales, had always been genuinely interested in her roots – places she visited as a child had an instantaneous familiarity yet at the same time sowed feelings of displacement. To get in touch with her family history, Melanie started watching Chinese period dramas from an early age.
Fashion and history had always shared a mutually beneficial kinship, where looking back helped fashion move forward. For Melanie’s first collection, this kinship was the core of her inspiration.
Meng takes inspiration from Chinese calligraphy, architectural forms and curves and gestures of the human body. Curves constantly change and form unexpected lines; this tells you a lot about the wearer’s personality. The energy within movement shares the same philosophy and logic as Chinese calligraphy.
Meng connects intangible movement to tangible volume with every stroke. She combines modern elements of architecture shapes to further enhance her designs.
Michelle Lung’s collection draws upon the untouchability of digital culture we are undoubtedly surrounded by and arguably depend on everyday. Nowadays, it may be argued technology is one of our most valued possessions; if there was a fire, most people would reach for their smartphones and laptops before the contents of their jewellery box. The majority of people hold a mobile or are plugged into earphones closer to their body more than jewellery does. So are these now becoming arguably more personal, precious and considered artefacts to adorn the body than jewellery is?
Galileo was Michel Kabbany’s inspiration for his first collection; The worldly famous, the astronomer, the physicist, the human. He was persecuted and condemned for "Vehement Suspicion of Heresy" And here he is now, on every mind, on every mouth, in every book. “Inspiring people like me, people like you”.
The embroidery are rounded shapes based on the astronomy and the shapes of the globes. Michel Kabbany has two types of embroidery in this collection; one is pure gold sarma and kora and the other one is a mix between thread, beading and cocoon embroidery.
Michelle researched over her families history over many generations and it became apparent to her that textile processes were passed from one generation to the next. For example, her mother taught her skills and processes from which her own mother passed onto her. These skills are iconic and in-stilled within our roots, something which I want to continue as these skills once pasted are at the risk of dying out.
Michelle aims to make the viewer really see beyond traditional textiles as dated, by refreshing traditional methods into modern and contemporary designs.
Miette Farrer’s graduate collection, created in collaboration with Katie Westwood, was inspired by craft processes and the reinvention of the familiar. Drawing inspiration from the mass produced shirt and jeans, innovative textile techniques were explored to recreate the shadows, creases and suggestion of these garments. With the focus on process, techniques were pushed to the limits in order to recreate entire fabrics.
The importance of slow fashion is reflected through the time consuming processes of hand painting, cutting, manipulating and stitching to create fabrics and garments.
Miss Woods timeless collections are produced in the south of Italy, a short distance from the Amalfi Coast.
The leather used in their products has been prepared in the world's most renowned tanneries through the centuries of refining of their tradition by the highly esteemed Italian leather craftsmen, that abide to the strict standards to ensure the production of the finest leather in the world. Using methods, that have been passed through generations, their craftsmen use a long complicated process of vegetable tanning with artisan techniques and new technology to create a luxury leather to achieve the highest quality of the product.
Molly Baker’s collection was inspired by her love for nature and found motives from zoo visits where she was able to appreciate the conservation work being done. Historical animal displays gave her a further interest in the life and death cycle of animals alongside research into the harms of animal hunting.
Mona Cordes collection is influenced by Clowns and Circus as well as Brexit which comes together as a colour/ pattern madness which is very pleasing to the eye but is rebellious and political at the same time. Her 6 graduate collection looks create a womenswear/ unisex collection that is fully printed. All characters belong to 'Circus Infinity' and have their own names as well as passports which allow them to still freely travel the world. A fuck you to Brexit + a yes welcome to individuality.
The collection 'Two Spirits' has been strongly influenced by the topic of gender.The main inspiration has risen from transgender Native American and XIX century cross-dressing women that strongly questioned gender norms in that age and had major impact redefining gender perspectives.
Inspiration came from various periods and cultural backgrounds such as American Natives, Two Spirit is a culturally distinct gender that describes Indigenous North Americans who fulfil one of many mixed gender roles found traditionally among many Native Americans.
Living in New York for her placement at year inspired Mya’s collection. Taking the term “Concrete Jungle” literally, Mya imagined what life would be like for a wild animal living in the city. Then, discovering the trend of exotic pets in the 70s solidified the concept, creating embellished pieces through rhinestones and colourful prints.