MENSWEAR DESIGN PROCESS


ALVIN LAM

Focusing on the body and movement, particularly within dance was a major influence when it came to Alvin Lam’s first collection. By looking into the history of dance and seeing how it has progressed through the ages allowed him to understand how the art is connected to romance and sensuality.

After interviewing dancers Alvin learnt how important the waist and the legs are, predominantly within ballet. Focusing on the muscles in these two areas allowed him to create designs that enhance the beauty of these.

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ANNIE EUNBYEOL CHOI

Having spent her time in the halls of London’s elite fashion schools and surrounding herself with industry peers, Annie began to notice a stark similarity. Black has circulated saliently, a modest staple in wardrobes and central piece to many designers’ collections. She poses the question, how many black items do you have in your wardrobe?

Her research then started off with two simple queries: What is black? Why do people love wearing black?

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BEN STEPHEN FORD

Ben Stephen Ford’s graduate collection is inspired by the concept of wanting to ‘fix it’ or ‘put it right’, playing with the impulse of those who can’t stop that internal need for perfection.

The idea can be best described as a crooked hanging frame, some would see the fault from a distance away, however some may just walk past it. It is those who have to fix the problem who are the ones that are being captured in the collection.

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BERENIKE CORCUERA

Berenike Corcuera’s collection was inspired by kirilian photographs of her aura, first captured in Chinatown’s reowned Magic Jewelry when she lived in New York in 2014. She began studying the electromagnetic field of the human body to understand how to translate the invisible. She began the practice of mandala and colour studies to understand how metaphysical bodies could be interpreted into physical bodies and contemporary menswear clothing.

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BRYAN WAN

“When your world is collapsing, when everything is closing in, what you want is to be somewhere else, somewhere you can breathe in peace, a scrap of beauty, far from the noise and ugliness but, if there is no escape then you go there in your dreams and you paint that landscape into existence.”

Bryan Wan’s collection was aiming to express the concept through his pattern cutting and designing processes, inspired by his initial inspiration which is trying to translate the elegant and simple lines and the shapes and spaces of traditional Chinese hand made Ming furnitures and ceramics.

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CICLO

The hybrid defies order, reinvents it. Inhabits the imaginary, but emanates from the real and transforms it. The hybrid is the completely other. In it, the human being projects himself, questions himself and finds the reflection in which he re-articulates his identities. The body is manipulated, the body is equated, the body is fused.

From the beginning of its history, societies, through complex cultural systems, have operated hybridisation, in a mythology that does not admit its denial as exclusively fantastic, whose analysis and appreciation opens the door to the understanding of the universal and the specific imaginary.

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CLAIRE PENG

Claire Peng’s collection SIMULACRA explores notions of normal dress through the works of photographers Hans Eijkelboom and Martin Parr. Noting the unconscious commonalities in what ordinary people wear, and how hung garments can look like real people, the collection plays with the idea of simulation and the ‘wearing’ of another person.

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ELISHA CORINNE

Elisha Corinne’s debut collection titled ‘The Lost Boys’ came from her interests into travel and exploration of new places. Shackleton’s famous Antarctic voyage first inspired this story with influence from the equipment, clothing and surrounding environments.

During the design development process Elisha wanted to distort the normal shapes and silhouettes of garments. Enlarging and folding trousers and classic shirts then pairing these with fisherman inspired silhouettes creating a well-considered collection.

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EMILY CLARK

Emily began designing womenswear because, as a young girl, the idea of designing for men simply never occurred to her. It wasn't until her second year at Kingston University that a tutor assumed her clothes were for men, when all of a sudden the penny dropped. Ever since she has been obsessed with Mens clothing, from tailoring and formalwear to sportswear and RTW.

When studying abroad in Asia Emily became extremely aware of the stark differences between male friendships in the East compared to that of the West, and began to question the social construct of masculinity.

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FRANCES SPRY

Frances’s graduate collection was inspired by the importance of utilising resources that would otherwise end up in landfill. With military themes and the utilisation of surplus garments, the collection experiments with urban camouflage and recycling. Drawing from contemporary trends to put down phones and become weekend warriors this collection was inspired by ideas of a utilitarian-cool aesthetic, with garments that can be worn in both urban and rural environments.

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GEORGINA JENKINS

Georgina’s graduate collection was inspired by Yayoi Kusama, a Japanese artist and writer. She would look through her arts pieces, painting and sculptures to help her to develop her own work. Finding out Yayoi suffered from obsessive-compulsive neurosis and hallucinations played a big part in how Georgina was influenced by the artist. She found both her work and her story mesmerising and fascinating.

Following on from this, Georgina discover a sculptor from South Korea called Choi Xoo Ang who is mainly known for his unearthly but highly intricate human figures.

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JAEHYEONG BAK

Jaehyeong's graduate collection 'Wearable Toy' contains research and development to create original concept wear which is assembly garment. It is inspired by robot toys. The toy does not have to be only practical, so he chooses a toy as the main theme. He wants to design a garment that has various potential, not only to concentrate on function.

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JAMES REEVES

In a time where gender neutrality takes precedence, how has the conventional notions of menswear changed? James Reeves poses this question and through his designs, tackles some of these complexities.

Historically speaking, men’s dress was simply put, very straightforward – military uniforms, suit variations and white-collar attire. These styles were often crafted in traditional prints such as herringbone and houndstooth. These stiff dress regulations formed the foundation of James' garments.

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JI MIN LEE

Ji Min Lee is a menswear designer from South Korea. She is interested in eroticism, sexuality and the naked human form. Hand drawing is where her work begins and how she expresses what she sees and how she feels, revealing her imagination.

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KA YEE LEE

Throughout my collection, Saville Row cloth merchant Holland and Sherry has been very supportive, generously sponsoring and subsidising my fabrics whilst also assisting with sourcing.

The concept of this collection began with research on the capitalist system, as corporations gain increasing levels of political power questions surrounding economic and cultural shifts begin to be at the forefront of contemporary discussion.

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KAT EVANS

Kat’s debut BA Graduate collection, THE FLOWER BOYS CLUB centres on Britain’s most exclusive all boys’ boarding school, Eton College. With strong comparisons to modern cult societies and Etons educational institute opposite, Black Mountain College. This is an in-depth exploration of the hierarchical elite.


LAUREN BROXTON

Lauren’s collection was the result of immersing herself in traditionally working class environments, namely pubs and boxing gyms, with the intention of returning the image of the working man to one of heroic romanticism, rejecting the usual visual references of functional workwear. Exploring the rich heritage of her hometown and its revered leather industry, she worked closely with numerous saddlery companies, using donated leather offcuts to create the entirety of her collection, using laser etching technologies to add decorative surface design, originating from her own sketches.

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LINUS LEONARDSSON

“See you in the fog” is set at a summer night rave in a forest outside of Stockholm. It is referencing the teenage fear of not fitting into an adult world, and their attempts to adapt and finding out who they are. The results are silhouettes that are glamorous and fabulous and celebrating individuality and self love. It deals with a world of opposing contrasts, where natural rawness meets artificiality, tradition juxtaposes new social norms and trash left at a party contrasts new ways of preserving nature.

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LORENZO SEGHEZZI

“QUEER REVOLUTION” x Lorenzo Seghezzi is inspired by the Italian queer revolution between the late 70s and early 80s, its bound with punk movements and arts. The goal of this collection is to criticise how extreme machismo and masculinity were and still are a huge problem in the queer community. His personal view of masculinity is emphasised with strong silhouettes with wide shoulders and tiny waistlines in the first half of the collection while the second part frees itself from this toxic machismo showing a more soft and slim shape.

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MANON PRADIER

Everything in nature can be seen as patterns. We as a human race derive inspiration from this. We construct concrete jungles, build roads like vines and tree roots, follow a flow where feathers grow in, making us so much a.LIKE to nature.

Manon’s collection is a Ready To Wear collection which takes influence from this, colliding the worlds of geometrical shapes and architecture, with the repetition found throughout nature; these elements are key details to each garments.

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MAYYA AGAYEVA

The collection is inspired from digital footprints recorded by Google, revealing our digital twin and a new internet culture which reflects our digital life. You can be anything you want online, as the internet is a space that promotes visibility as the ultimate equalising platform. Internet culture has been the biggest inspiration for Mayya's designs for many years. There are three significant steps in creating a data-based collection.

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MONIKA JAUNEIKAITE

The collection 'Two Spirits' has been strongly influenced by the topic of gender.The main inspiration has risen from transgender Native American and XIX century cross-dressing women that strongly questioned gender norms in that age and had major impact redefining gender perspectives.

Inspiration came from various periods and cultural backgrounds such as American Natives, Two Spirit is a culturally distinct gender that describes Indigenous North Americans who fulfil one of many mixed gender roles found traditionally among many Native Americans.

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ORLANDA JAMES

This collection started with research investigating the history of camouflage, but during the initial research stages Orlanda was also writing her dissertation and that research quickly took over and began to dominate her creative projects. The dissertation, which explored the symbolic nature of the hoodie and its manifestation of toxic masculinity in urban British youth culture, mirrored the stories of the young men around her, and that of her own experiences and understanding of the social pressures on men, witnessed in her family.

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PENG YE

刹那 is the word that represents the shortest accountable time in Chinese, and equal to 1000000000000000000 / 1 second. This is a project about distortion, transformation and the complexity behind simpleness.

The project begins with a part of my memory from childhood. When I was younger, I used to sit in my father’s car and look at the things moving backwards outside the window. I always enjoyed looking at the fence beside the highway. When things quickly moving behind the stripes of fence, I see the shape of the things being broken, distorted and twisted, which amazed me a lot.

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PENG YU WANG

Inspired by the way insects are constantly renovating and breaking their own inherent patterns in order to become brand new, vivacious and beautiful beings, Peng Yu focused on breaking original lifestyles when it came to creating his collection.

Moving on from this, Peng Yu began observing himself and how he immerses himself into the world, and more importantly, into a chaotic society. Through this he learnt who he wanted to be and how to achieve that goal.

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SAMSON LEUNG

Based on the feeling of overwhelmed, he redirected the emotion into a mood film that he shot in Japan named “Dear You”. The project follows the sequel, a second narrative film shot in Hong Kong named “Paper Boys” which follows a “paper” boy whom felt overwhelmed and decided to leave his life behind, however after reaching the epiphany of explosion, he realises in the end that he is still very much a papery boy.

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SAVVAS ALEXANDER

Savvas collection 001, titled ‘as the lotus blooms’ is based on the narrative of uncovering deceit.

Inspired by themes of surreal biological reconfiguration, the project lives in an entirely interwoven world between fashion and film. the collection has been designed as season-less, with a focus put on the alchemy of creating avant-garde clothing with the human body in mind, as garments fulfil both an artistic sensibility and a wearable edge.

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SHUN YIP

Shun Yip’s collection was heavily inspired by the notion of the film ‘Pleasantville’. which was used as a bedrock to push the ideas of an archetypal world that has divergent protagonists. An existence that has distractions from what the world really is, utopian principles painting a picture of a faultless environment, a sanctuary from the reality that surrounds us every day. Taking menswear into a new direction, reworking it into a collection of realism.

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SID BULLMORE

Panna’s debut collection takes inspiration from the work of Argentine interdisciplinary artist Tomas Saraceno. In particular ‘Aerocene’ an ongoing project involving the use of self-inflating weather balloons which use a UV reactive fabric. The collection aims to imitate the work’s sense of weightlessness, through the use of the garment of construction and materials.

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SOHYEON PARK

Sohyeon's father became the subject of this collection. He was a prime example of life in Korea in the 1970´s. When people learn and gain knowledge from life experiences, they then pass it down on to their children. This is what Sohyeon wanted to represent through this collection, the fashion knowledge learnt from his father that now she wants to represent.

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SOPHIE BAILEY

This project explores the erratic nature of hoarding as well as its relation to other wider social and cultural issues such as overconsumption and excessive waste, with influences and inspiration drawn from various artists and photographers such as Corinna Kern and Gregg Segal.

The projects aim is to study the nature of hoarding and its relation and possible routes of translation into a cohesive fashion collection of menswear garments with consideration of textiles, print and fabrication.

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STEVE JIN

Steve Jin's capsule collection titled ‘Between Solidity and Fluidity’ is a work of self-reflection. In order to discover the persona behind the pieces, one needs only to look at the pieces themselves. Steve likes to describe himself as a clean person.

He likes to be tidy and organised yet he revels in small explosions of intricate details, a fine juxtaposition of structure and chaos. By adding an effeminate touch such as flower embroidery acting as decorative accents on a palette of periwinkle blues and blush pink, the collection alluded to the 70s era; and the whole of it, a coming together of the ‘free-spirit’ and the ‘neat freak’.

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TAEYOUNG PARK

‘Wear it the way you want’ is a collection that makes you rethink how clothes can be worn in different ways in our daily life. This graduate collection was inspired by Erwin Wurm, Austrian sculptural artist; his sculptural art works had helped me to develop my idea and visualise my idea to final works.

This collection investigates to ignore the original features of menswear garment and recreate original features of menswear garment. The collection investigates on sculptural art works of the imagination and creativity to redefine ways of wearing garment and its functionality.

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THOMAS COX

Thomas Cox looked into how and why stereotypical homosexual men appear to be less intimidating and less of a physical threat to society but to the church and religion are considered a physical threat.

Historically and still in some cases today the church do not accept people who are different and do not fit into their tightly restrained world that is governed by rules and commandments. These men are therefore trapped by the vision society has of them in the cage they are forced into by the church.

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VEE HAYWARD

Vee Hayward’s AW19 collection ‘Untitled’ focuses on an exploration of form, shape and silhouette. Her initial starting point stemmed from the works of artists such as Agnes Jones, Rene Magritte, Georgio De Chirico and sculptor by Max bill. The Varying translations of surrealism and the fluidity of communication between textile and the human form, as well as juxtaposing sources of inspiration with design features present a reoccurring theme within the collection.

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VOLS & ORIGINAL

Vols & Original’s inspiration comes from the desire of two souls sharing their passion for fashion, art and music with the world. Vols & Original founders Bart and Natalia, combine their backgrounds in music and fashion marketing to create a strong and edgy brand. Bespoke tailoring along with the duo’s passion for music and craftsmanship, are the core identities of the brand.

At the core of Vols & Original, is an inseparable design process where creation and music blend to shape the mood and rhythm of every piece.

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XIAO ZHU CHEN

Dubbed “Little Prince” (after the famed fable of childhood innocence suitable for all ages with its underlying philosophical treatise) there is no better name for Xiao Zhu’s first collection, which probes into the fragile friction between adulthood and childhood perception.

Through the view of both lenses, her designs take inspiration from kid’s drawings and childhood toys reinvented for adult appropriate dress. Bright, vivid colours were selected as backdrops to playful prints, building block inspired shapes and childlike scribbles. LEGO pieces were used to create whimsical accessories such as sunglasses, handbags and hats whilst some pieces were simultaneously applied as embellishments.

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YINGI GOMA

Nigerian designer, Yingi Goma’s graduate menswear collection draws inspirations from a street vendor in Nigeria. By viewing the African country with a third eye, she captures her Lagos car ride experience, the lifestyle and environment.

There is a mix of unusual garment fabrics such as tech net, plastic and hessian; shapes and oversized silhouettes. Draw cords passed through button holes, Detachable bags and draw string sack-like shapes that reference items street hawkers carry on their body. The use of embroidery and print for text reference is a key aspect that brings curiosity to the collection.

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ZLATA ALEKHNO

ALL OR NOTHING graduate collection was inspired by Zlata’s experience in the UK where she had to either make it or go back home. To show her values and heritage Zlata used the Russian language to express the notion of ALL OR NOTHING, which translates as ВСЁ ИЛИ НИЧЕГО.

The silhouette and gender-neutral designs were inspired and developed through the exploration of kimono, a traditional Japanese garment. The notion of Eastern pattern cutting was explored and compared to the Western approach. Creating the space between the body and garment allowed the wearer to move and interact with the garments.

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