DESIGN PROCESS XIAOQIAN SHAO During Xiao Qian's studies in BA Fashion Design at the University for the Creative Arts, she became fascinated with the knitting wear industry. As one of the important sectors in the manufacturing industry, it's constantly evolving with new materials, styles of knitting and machines being introduced. Enraptured by the different types of knitting machines, ideas came flooding to her.
These structures, large in their size and their power, can be fatal. At the same time, these specific machines, overwhelming as they are, are able to produce fine and delicate material. the movements of the machine's intricacies and the synthesis of two discrepant materials, cold hard metal and soft malleable fibres became the inspiration to her collection.
XIAOQING LIU Xiaoqing Liu focused on the relationship between solid and liquid. The texture, structure and colours of the opposite materials reflect a variety of moods, which is what Liu based her collection on.
Liu was inspired by these diverse matters in the world as they exist in every aspect of our day to day lives. In order to understand what they demonstrate to each individual it was important to explore their materiality.
XIAO ZHU CHEN Dubbed “Little Prince” (after the famed fable of childhood innocence suitable for all ages with its underlying philosophical treatise) there is no better name for Xiao Zhu’s first collection, which probes into the fragile friction between adulthood and childhood perception.
Through the view of both lenses, her designs take inspiration from kid’s drawings and childhood toys reinvented for adult appropriate dress. Bright, vivid colours were selected as backdrops to playful prints, building block inspired shapes and childlike scribbles. LEGO pieces were used to create whimsical accessories such as sunglasses, handbags and hats whilst some pieces were simultaneously applied as embellishments.
YANA ISTOMINAInspired by the visual aspect of physical changes that occur with time, Yana’s collection focus on wrinkles and the body’s shape. Her work is based on her personal feelings provoked by the ageing process of her own skin and the anticipation of its future changes.
According to Yana’s research there are two main opinions formed by social norms as well as personal feelings. One of them is positive: age is viewed as something to be proud of, as a testimony of valuable experiences and the visible part of our personality.
YEHUA FAN Yehua took primary inspiration from three elements: Rococo, Mari Antoinette and Crinoline. His collection mainly consists of oversized black suits, ruffled see-through blouses and white crinolines. Most importantly, he considers crinoline to be crucial in his collection for its resemblance with a birdcage, a symbol of limitation on absolute freedom. His collection had a focal point: the total self-liberation from negative feelings or opinions that people had on him, and the need to be sociable in order to blend in with the rest of the society. At first, the disrespectful attitudes received from many others had made Yehua feel slightly uneasy, and maybe even marginally upsetting.
YINGI GOMA Waterside boy AW18- The collection draws inspiration from a street hawker who carries all kinds of goods on his body, convincing car riders to buy from him. The collection captures her environment and lifestyle.
There is an interesting use of text, proportions, shapes and fabrication. There is a mix of unusual garment fabrics such as tech net fabric, plastic fabric and hessian. Cotton, linen and woven fabrics are used to represent both the hardship and casual appearance of Waterside boy.
YU CHING SHEN “LOVE” a topic that has been heatedly dissected and debated and has become a never-ending source of enquiry, a subjective emotion that has been time again in pop-culture, sociology, psychology… As Plato and Socrates saw it, love was a mental disease, echoed by Haddaway’s infamously catchy song, ‘What is Love? Baby don’t hurt me’.
Yu Ching Shen, a Taiwanese designer, also reflects these realistic sentiments. During her studies at Kingston University for her Fashion MA course, she focussed heavily on textiles research, namely the concept of communicating emotions through textiles. Choosing the emotive ‘love’, Yu-Ching uses different textiles to exemplify her definition of what love is.
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ZEXI YU Zexi Yu is redefining menswear. Her graduate collection, ‘Dandy In His Garden’, received a magical makeover via dazzling designs embroidered with flowers. Inspired by tailoring and corsetry history, each piece translates an approachable feel.
Yu enhanced her garments through complex lining and shoulder pad silhouettes. This allowed her to create innovative designs that were further heightened through skilful tailoring.