WOMENSWEAR DESIGN PROCESS

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HANNAH GILBERT

Hannah Gilbert’s collection ‘Not Ur Sim’ brings to life a team of superheroines out of the video game world and into reality. She aims to celebrate the incredible strength and forces that women behold by designing sport style clothing with a futuristic and industrial look as if from another planet. As a child, instead of believing in superheroes Hannah idolized athletes and perceived them as almighty and otherworldly. Her research examines the roles that women play in video games and also took inspiration from leading females in comics and action movies such as Lara Croft, the Matrix, and Ghost in the Shell.

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JASMINE FARMER

Jasmine Farmer’s collection explores the sensory elements of knitwear through creating intricate knit structures that reflect that of Braille. Jasmine’s collection is very textile driven and she brings life to the garments through powerful colours that stimulate the senses. Her collection focuses on organic fabrics that create interaction when worn through movement and tactility.

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JEONGHYEON HAHN

The word ‘Grotesque’ refers to the combination of highly contrasting objects or concepts together. In the case of these illustrations, it is composed of the deconstructed human body, organs and natural creatures and artificial objects. By deconstructing the complete garments, inner structures are revealed and they are connected with free-style draping to create new designs and suggest unconventional ways of wearing

Jeonghyeon was able to create a new combination of design with a feminine mood through the use of exquisite material and tailoring. Successfully incorporating delicate details and intriguing elements to the design.

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JESSIE MCGUIRE

I interviewed Tim Buckle, a retired Team GB cyclist and junior coach who told me about the world of elite cycling and what inspired him to take up the sport. He described watching Stephen Roche in the 1987 Tour De France dramatic finish as he reached La Plagne: “I flicked channel 4 on and it happened to be this epic stage race, Stephen Roche flaked out and needed oxygen.

The drama of it, how cool this guy looked, the colour, everything about it was fantastic. That’s what I wanted to do for a living.” The nostalgia and excitement of the competitive cycling world was another big inspiration to me as the project developed.

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JILL HYNDMAN

The research process began with combining menswear with womenswear, starting with the mood board seen above. The inspiration started with looking at beautifully elegant 18th century menswear from the famous Fashion Museum, which as a Bath Spa student, Jill was lucky to have just outside her door step.

To contrast with the masculine theme, Jill also looked at women’s vintage lingerie from the 19th century, with focus on the camp corset with its winding cords. Much like fabrics used within these time periods, this collection consists of luxurious dusty pastel fabrics with rich lace and shimmering metallic textures.

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JIMIN KIM

Jimin’s thesis collection Modern Girl reflects the collision of American and Korean cultures and the place of women within it. Passionate about hip-hop and street culture, Jimin rejects misogyny and female stereotypes instead embraces the Modern Girl as being multi-cultural, highly educated and independent in her actions and how she looks – confident and proud. Utilising traditional Korean knotting methods in her collection transforms a technique that is traditionally woman-made into a garment of empowerment.

During the process of combining Korean traditional ornament with modern streetwear, Photographing garments in development and using photoshop to manipulate them further into original and dynamic prints.

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JIN LEE

Jin Lee’s collection is themed around a combination of coexistence and conflict condition within feminism. Inspired by Colette, a New York feminist artist in the 70s, Jin’s designs would follow a similar aesthetic, in which both were affected by a maximalist environment and contrasts between soft materials and outdoor chaos.

Being a woman in the 21st century is very different from what it was like thirty years ago. Nowadays, women are told to be independent, strong creatures and not just soft and nurturing. Jin’s graduate collection combines the two emotions, both delicate and vigorous.

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JISU KANG

Jisu’s graduate collection was strongly inspired by the city she grew up in South Korea due to its many contrasting contradictions. Her hometown was both nature friendly and scientifically developed. Jisu picked up on these two juxtapositions and learnt how they coexist in one city. Combining both science and art from her hometown, Jisu used this to develop a flexible way of thinking when it came to her work.

Her influences continued to grow through how she began to express her thoughts and emotions through her surroundings and experiences in daily life. She turned her negative experience with depression into something positive by using it to inspire her graduate collection.

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JIYEON LEE

Jiyeon Lee’s graduate collection inspiration came from washing machines. One button is pressed and everything is spinning and all twisted together. She felt that her identity was also tangled up within that. Following the wash, the clothes are hung out to dry, which is where her thoughts also straighten out.

This influence came about when Lee was in Tokyo, she saw an old woman carrying a laundry basket whose floral print outfit she fell in love with. She watched as the woman stopped to put her garments onto her drying rack.

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JOANNA PRAZMO

Joanna Prazmo's collection was inspired by 'rhizome' philosophy developed by french philosopher Gilles Deluze and french psychoanalyst Felix Guattari. It suggests that many things in the world are consistent and 'rhizomatically' interconnected.This analysis draws examples from molecular biology, botany, evolution, history, linguistics, psychoanalysis, politics, music and even more. In Deluze and Guattari analysis all things in the world are rhizomes. Following this concept Joanna expanded her research into fields such as art, nature, microbiology and genetics which evolved into looking closer into living organisms which gave rise to wide range of inspirations for developing collection.

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JOOHYE EMMA PARK

Joohye Emma Park’s manifesto talks about emancipation of women’s bodies that is especially based on feminism. However, it led her to question herself, ‘Am I truly a feminist or just someone who is following the trend?’

Today, feminism is regarded as an important issue at every corner of society. ‘The third wave of feminism is now, and it is intersectional.’ (Land, 2013) It contributed on her thinking about the authenticity, generating a question: why have I become a feminist. She thought back of her old school days to question whether she was an angry rebellious teenager.

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JOOMI JAY JUNG

Over 40’s people are good at making their own style through basic items. Normally, their style is simple and neat with unique accessories or items, even their white hair can be used to represent by themselves naturally. They aren’t intend to be fashionable with fancy or gorgeous items because they already knew a specific point in minimalist fashion. I might feel ‘Mature Beauty’ through those fashion styles.

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JOSEFINE ALMASANU

Josefine Almasanu’s work often starts with a mood. Her work often tends tells a story of escapism, with a mood inspired from fantasy and nature. She is also heavily influenced by costume design and historic dress such as the Victorian and Romanic eras. Furthermore, Almasanu tries to explore current issues in her work to give it modern relevance. As an artist she wants her designs to reflect some of the ideals and debates from our time, while also keeping a sense of the past.

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JULIANE RUMPF

Juliane used organic lines that part and come together, to represent celebrating the beauty of migration. This then led her towards a unique design approach which applies to both her fabric manipulations and creative cutting.

Despite the very topical and current nature of the concept, Juliane applied strict design rules to allow her to create timeless signature shapes and fabrics. The coherence between her fabric innovations and creative cuts creates a seamlessly recognisable signature style.

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JUN NAKAMURA

Shibori has been processed widely for tie-dye effects. However, JU-NNA processed Shibori on printed fabrics on original Shibori patterns, focusing on its 3D structure. This innovative approach gives it a completely different appearance and twists to the original. JU-NNA works with Japanese Shibori companies and the artisans bind fabric one by one by hand. JU-NNA believes that this time-consuming handiwork creates an original beauty and this practice contributes to the preservation of this traditional technique.

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KELLY ATTENBERGER

Kelly’s work is informed by the experimentation and development of a variety of textural forms including knitwear; sculpted into wearable garments. Alongside these more experimental processes she uses Lectra pattern cutting software to complement and enhance the design process, in order to achieve a carefully considered shape.

Kelly was inspired by her surroundings in the summer of 2016 spent in a rural part of Connecticut. This land previously owned by native American tribes 100 years ago, is now used to continue the teaching of traditional dances to keep skills alive for generations to come.

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KELLY LANGRIDGE

Kelly's collection is inspired by looking at forms of movement and studying ways to create new forms of motion in fashion, exploring a range of movements, such as perpetual motion, counterbalance, ball bearing spinners and also captured still motion. the inspiration began from the science behind how a dog shakes its fur, and capturing this type of movement and translating it into a garment.

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KEJIA WUCHENG

In the eyes of Kejia, architecture and fashion garments have always had a special relationship, as they both surround and protect the space of our physical body. In the beginning of her project, titled " Architectual skin", Kejia was inspired by Frank Gehry's architecture creations, especially the way she manipulates the shape of window, and the curve lines she utilises in some of her designs.

Kejia thought she could recreate these elements in fashion textile, as she sees fashion and architecture sharing the same purpose: to provide protection for our physical body.

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KIM TIZIANA ROTTMULLER

The collection Oblivion is complex and controversial. It takes its inspiration from a seductive, witchy diva and is dealing a lot with symbolism and spirituality.

The part of the labyrinth which can be seen in every outfit through the massive strips, embroidery and self-designed print is metaphoric to our personal thoughts and feelings, in which we can get lost. On the other hand is the witch a symbolism for our transcendental self and inner magical power. Supported with tarot cards included within the clothes.

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KIRIE LEA

Kirie lea’s collection was heavily inspired by the juxtaposition of traditional samurai to contemporary street culture. The comparison of Tomoe Guzan (the first female samurai) and Tina Turner (singer/songwriter) and how they overcome their personal struggles, reflected on her own negative personal situation and representing herself in the narrative as a phoenix.

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KUN QIAN

Kun Qian’s collection was heavily inspired by her memorable experience of her 5 year in London. She is constantly surrounded by traffic jams, pollution, people and overall overstimulation. Over this time she has become more and more appreciative of peace, quiet and nature. She feels happiest and most inspired when she is in one of the many public gardens, feeding swans. It makes her feel at ease and gives her a lot of gratification.

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LAURA CAPELLO

Laura’s graduate collection is about the journey of a mysterious woman living in a far away world. This collection is inspired by two very different yet both highly detailed types of clothing. On one hand, it was influenced by the 1870s Victorian fashion which is well shown in the handcrafted detailed elements.

On the other hand, there is the modernity and cleanness of space suits and science fiction, which has led to a dramatic but realistic fashion story.

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LAURA GACCI

Laura Gacci’s collection celebrates success and failure in the workplace. Often, in fact, behind an objective are many failures. These last ones are needed for ‘build’ the steps of a solid staircase that leads to success. Practicality and uniqueness join together and translate into a combination of different materials and in the originality of the construction cuts that recall the elegance of the lines of Art Noveau. The woman’s collection is active, with masculine attributes, great femininity and a strong desire to assert herself.



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LAURA MERRETT

Laura Merrett’s SS20 graduate collection ‘It Started in Naples’; designed for a bold and powerful high-flying city woman, who in turn favours a more whimsical vacation style wardrobe for the summer seasons, mixing heritage tailoring with a soft flowing drape. The 1960 film ‘It Started in Naples’, featuring Sophia Loren and Clark Gable, formed the starting point for this collection with the film providing both historical and geographical information.

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LAWRENCE CM CHANG

Based on how body modifications are seen as normal nowadays, Lawrence intended to accelerate the process on a much larger scale; envisioning a future society with synthesised human.

We, as the beacon of evolution seek for greater strength and abilities beyond our corpse could offer, therefore, the “upgrade” becomes a must for surviving in such crucial environment.

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LIZA KAIN

Liza came across an image of Sarah Bernhard in the role of the Byzantine empress Theodora and the image got stuck in her head. It emanated intense power, but also there was a sense of vulnerability, timelessness and very pure femininity. From that moment on she knew what she wanted her collection to be.

The center of her research became the topic of women in history/art who were portrayed as creatures able to enchant and enslave anyone who crosses their path, such as Oscar Wilde’s story of Salome and the dance of 7 veils.

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LOOM LOOP

Loom Loop is a design partnership between Polly Ho and Andy Wong. Inspired by a trip to Guangzhou, the couple discovered an interesting heritage fabric. When the designers saw the heritage fabric called the Canton silk, they were bowled over by the artisan techniques employed to dye the silk, using plant based dye, river mud and solar power.

This collection embodies a mixture of traditional craftsmanship, with the heritage Canton fabric, along with a modern approach to contemporary individualism.

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LOTTIE EDGAR

Originally fascinated by the idea of opening up closed forms, through a meditative process, sketching, Lottie began exploring how she could apply internal space to closed forms. These 2D spatial exploration sketches provided a platform of inspiration for her collection.

Through a transition between dimensions, she took the initial 2D forms and transferred them into 3D form through cutting and draping fabric onto a body. The cutting of the fabric exposed the inner space between the fabric and the body and allowed the idea of space to flow through a garment.

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LOUISE DESOEUVRE

Louise Desoeuvre’s AW/20 collection ‘Magnificence of the East’ is inspired by her Russian and Breton heritage. It is an emotional and powerful tribute to her great-grandfather, Ivan Ivanovitch. a Cossack, obligated to leave Russia during the revolution in the early 20th Century. He and his brother, Vassili Ivanovitch, survived and came to France. They lost everything but always kept their dignity. Louise was inspired by their strength and elegance to create powerful designs.

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LUCY SALTINSTALL

Lucy Saltinstall’s collection was heavily inspired by the High Line in New York, which she came across last year whilst visiting the city.

Incorporating the juxtaposition of brutalist structures and the resilience of nature into her designs, Lucy created an androgynous womenswear collection featuring a mixture of tailoring, knitwear and sportswear detailing, a new genre to portray the clashing of these two concepts.

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LYDIA FUNG SZE KI

In Lydia Fung’s MA collection Nebulous Erotica, she is trying to see new age intimacy through her own world. Lydia started with her 2D visual exploration to express the freedom of endlessness and formless erotica in the digital age, there are no ends and beginnings of bodies in her images, every interaction, every object, subject is formless.

It is amorphous, it is raw, it is not fixed, it is freed. How bodies interact intimately with each other is purely based on the essence, based on a formless bond, based on the tension in between.

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LYDIA JACKSON

Lydia Jackson’s S/S collection 2018 ‘BEAUTY WITHOUT BOARDERS’ was inspired by her journey around South East Asia. With the concept of beauty is a series of events, capturing the raw beauty of individuals, there culture and lifestyle. Designs were inspired by the vibrant busy imagery and developed into bold statement silhouettes. Expressing the idea of individuality and the idea of you don’t have to look a certain way to be categorised into societies idea of beauty.

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MABEL TALLULAH

The initial focus point for the contextual research of this collection centred around punk culture and the values they hold and the subcultures that are formed in attraction to the punk ethos. What makes the feminine adaptation of punk culture powerful, is that rather than relying on others for their self worth they actually create their own strong self-images. Punk girls feel empowerment from resisting socialized beauty standards, that tell them short hair, facial piercings and layered oversized clothing is ugly.

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MADDIE WILLIAMS

Maddie’s graduate collection was heavily inspired by the Wilder Mann documentary by Charles Freger. It is about how the transformation of man to beast is a central aspect of traditional pagan rituals that are centuries old, which celebrate the seasonal cycle, fertility, life and death.

Each year throughout Europe, from Scotland to Bulgaria, from Finland to Italy, from Portugal to Greece, Switzerland and Germany, people literally put themselves into the skin of the ‘savage’, in a masquerades that stretch back centuries.

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MADDY STRINGER

Maddy Stringer’s S/S 19 collection draws inspiration from the beauty in the mundane, exploring the human desire to collect and why we can feel connected to inanimate objects.

Maddy identifies with being a hoarder, her most notable collections include an extensive range of hotel soap packets and miniature doll’s house furniture items. The juxtaposition of traditional furnishing motifs and bright plastic packaging became the unexpected starting point for Maddy’s designs.

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MALENE AHLERT

Malene's collection is mainly inspired by the movement of contemporary dance and musicians such as Patti Smith or PJ Harvey. The term femininity played a key role in her work and she wanted to combine different perceptions of this by putting the softness of the dance together with the more rough image and look of Rock’n Roll musicians. She experimented with different techniques of twisting and stretching the fabric around the body and combining see-through materials with rough materials to bring together and play with feminine and masculine elements.

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MANIMEKALA

Initially inspired by the clashing gangs of Tokyo Tribe, a dystopian rap battle musical, Manimekala’s SS19 collection "Wayward" is about the interaction of different cultures. Researching the Japanese subculture of the bosozoku bikers, and their adoption of the American greaser lifestyle, Manimekala developed distinctive abstract motifs to identify her own imagined gang.

Coming from a mixed race background comprising British, Indian and American (USA), she takes an intersectional approach to consider the implications of her specific heritage within the context of contemporary power structures and the legacy of Western colonialism.

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MANON PLANCHE

Inspired by drag racing cars and their bold and eclectic drivers, this collection celebrates the sport’s daring and playful spirit. Protective wear and car interiors inform inventive pattern cutting and textiles techniques – creating new and exciting 3D surfaces using foam squares trapped in between layers of fabrics.

Focusing on the contrast between rigid and flowing fabrics in exaggerated silhouettes with details borrowed from sportswear, the car’s complex construction is referenced throughout.

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MARIA-RALUCA STREANG

Maria-Raluca Streang’s collection was heavily inspired by her dad’s childhood stories. Investigating the ways in which Communism affected Romania’s traditional culture and the effect that had on the mentality of millions of children that grew up under the Romanian Communist Dictatorship. Looking especially at the difference between the school uniforms children used to wear during that period (1970-1989) and the traditional costume, symbol of craftmanship and folk art.

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MARINE BEYBUDYAN

Marine Beybudyan's “Entangled” collection was initially inspired by Louise Bourgeois artwork, explores an idea of knots as a form of therapy for mental illnesses. Bourgeois considered art as a "form of psychoanalysis", offering unique access to the unconscious, as well as a form of psychological release.

Exploration of knotted shapes convey mixed emotions and feelings such as anxiety, fear and anger.

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MATILDA ABERG

Matilda Aberg’s collection was inspired by a story she came up with herself drawing inspiration from Swedish folk myth. It is a story of a lost princess in the dark Northern forests of the 17th Century and her encounters with the creatures of the forest - the femme fatals. From them she learns about sisterhood and revenge.

The inspiration of the collection comes from royal fashion with heavy velvets, the veils of the elves, the naked body of the mistress of the forest as well as her rotten back.

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MEGAN CUMMINGS

A Journey into a psychedelic landscape. Read Only Memory, a film by John Maybury, takes us on an experimental trip into an alternate microcosm. Megan Cummings’s collection, Microdose, desires to enter this world, translating surreal visuals, moods and feelings through the medium of cloth. Along with influences from 1980s club culture which catalysed the films production. Ultimately the collection is creating a physical portal into Maybury’s mind-bending tour.

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MEGAN GREENFIELD

Storytelling is a familiar pastime and one of the most ancient and compelling human rituals. This notion is important to Megan Greenfield, and the most exciting way for her to bring her design practice. She can not resist the art of creating another story from the very beginning; to form a narrative to design around, and to know who it is that she is designing for. The tale for her final collection starts with an exploration into her own family heritage. Deep-water ports hold the antiquity and glamour from the 1920 'Glory Day's' of sea travel and masts that are heavily draped in rope, reveal stories about characters onboard Naval ships during Napoleonic Wars.

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MEGAN STRANGE

Megan wanted to present the idea of reflection, layers and silhouette through her collection.Through her design process she would refer back to her concept and colour boards to gain inspiration on how the layering of the images could develop into garments.

The silhouettes are inspired by the transparent flower photographs and how gentle yet impactful they were. The layering of the images inspired Megan to create the pleating throughout her collection, she wanted to use a range of pleating techniques to create depth and detail.

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MELANIE YAU

For many Third Culture Kids, the curiosity of one's ancestral heritage is a growing enigma. Embracing her Third Culture Kid status, Melanie Yau, a British-born Chinese fashion design graduate from the University of South Wales, had always been genuinely interested in her roots – places she visited as a child had an instantaneous familiarity yet at the same time sowed feelings of displacement. To get in touch with her family history, Melanie started watching Chinese period dramas from an early age.

Fashion and history had always shared a mutually beneficial kinship, where looking back helped fashion move forward. For Melanie’s first collection, this kinship was the core of her inspiration.

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MICHEL KABBANY

Galileo was Michel Kabbany’s inspiration for his first collection; The worldly famous, the astronomer, the physicist, the human. He was persecuted and condemned for "Vehement Suspicion of Heresy" And here he is now, on every mind, on every mouth, in every book. “Inspiring people like me, people like you”.

The embroidery are rounded shapes based on the astronomy and the shapes of the globes. Michel Kabbany has two types of embroidery in this collection; one is pure gold sarma and kora and the other one is a mix between thread, beading and cocoon embroidery.

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MICHELLE MCAULEY

Michelle researched over her families history over many generations and it became apparent to her that textile processes were passed from one generation to the next. For example, her mother taught her skills and processes from which her own mother passed onto her. These skills are iconic and in-stilled within our roots, something which I want to continue as these skills once pasted are at the risk of dying out.

Michelle aims to make the viewer really see beyond traditional textiles as dated, by refreshing traditional methods into modern and contemporary designs.

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MOLLY KATHRYN

Wanting to stay true to her own individuality, Molly began her collection inspired by the music she grew up listening to, after watching her dad play in various bands through the ’80s and ’90s. Approaching her collection with the same unforgiving attitude of punk culture, she sought to rebel against gender norms and twist classic styles in a new approach to androgynous fashion.

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MONA CORDES

Mona Cordes collection is influenced by Clowns and Circus as well as Brexit which comes together as a colour/ pattern madness which is very pleasing to the eye but is rebellious and political at the same time. Her 6 graduate collection looks create a womenswear/ unisex collection that is fully printed. All characters belong to 'Circus Infinity' and have their own names as well as passports which allow them to still freely travel the world. A fuck you to Brexit + a yes welcome to individuality.

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MYA SUBONG

Living in New York for her placement at year inspired Mya’s collection. Taking the term “Concrete Jungle” literally, Mya imagined what life would be like for a wild animal living in the city. Then, discovering the trend of exotic pets in the 70s solidified the concept, creating embellished pieces through rhinestones and colourful prints.

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NADIA WIRE ALBRECHTSEN

The central aim of Color Intelligence is to highlight the importance of colour: How colour can guide and direct and tell its own language. A case study about lace and its patterns, formed the foundation for this collection: How women in the 18th century didn't knew how to read and therefore lace patterns was mapped out with a colour for each stitch. This aspect of using colours, as guidance is the main focus in Color Intelligence.

Michel Pastoureau's theory on colour and stripes founded the concept for this collection. Therefore this collection includes linear and irregular stripes from a naive and spontaneous point of view.

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NATTA

Ephialtes. Inspired by a mental state, Sleeping Paralysis reflects the combination of childhood’s terrific dream and nightmare, resulting in the beauty within that frightening journey.

NATTA Ephialtes collection combines together the deconstructed trench coat with loose tailoring details, oversized pockets with the elegance of 1900’s inspired drapery silhouette, yet with modern approach and the digital prints of the face with minimalistic straight stitch embroidery that evokes the elusive childhood. The stitching on the embroideries inspired by the used of thin lines in artworks about human’s mind, emotion and their alter-ego by Daeyhun Kim.

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NIA WINSTANLEY

Inspired by living out of a suitcase whilst on Erasmus and her late father’s organised collection of memorabilia, Nia Winstanley’s collection reflects on how our increasingly nomadic lifestyles require new ways of containing our innate hoarding instinct.

The contradiction between wanting to preserve throwaway items developed into the idea of ‘elevating trash’ using materials such as sequins and diamanté trims to create a collection which question the boundaries of ‘good’ taste.Superficially, hoarding suggests a celebration of excess, but it can also be a physical and mental burden.

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NICOLE CARRASCO

‘’Why (my) love?’’ Is a project born from the designer’s personal concern towards the narcissist approach of feelings in modern society after the arise of social medias. Inspired by the book ‘TheAgony of the Eros’ (Byung Chul Han, 2012) the designer explores the individualism and technology manipulation of social interaction, which sees an increase of narcissism that looks for love and desire within the ‘inferno of the same’.

She explores how this phenomenon is directly reflected in fashion which sees an abandonment of feelings and a more superficial approach towards it, both in the purchase (online shopping, fast fashion) and in the actual creative process (copy and paste from past collections).

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NINGYAO ZHANG

Ningyao Zhang combines traditional Chinese culture with modern fashion design to create her pieces. Having a strong interest in historic Chinese painting and calligraphy helped her create her graduate collection.

Before coming to London to study, Zhang was very interested in Chinese culture but found that it could be quite limited when it came to evolving her personal style and developing an understanding of fashion.

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ODELLA YUE

Odella Yue is originally from China, growing up in China and England was an interesting experience, she enjoyed her exploration in the two very different cultures, both of which have influenced her design style greatly.

Odella appreciates Chinese traditional culture as well as mode
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